5.9 cummins high efficiency/performance/longevity biuld
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03-07 Performance Parts Discussion
High compression 5.9block /6.7crank (19.42:1cr)
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Joshua3777
Joshua3777
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Joined Mar 15, 2022 · 30 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 · Sep 24, 2022 (Edited)
Ok guys time to update the platform, thoughts of running higher Compression...
So for my biuld, I'm using a 5.9block 6.7 crank. And the wide bowl pistons I came to 19.42:1 compression and 371.63cubic inches (6.09liters) using daimond pistons compression calculator.
We can further increase cr with other methods now that are available to market like the .080" longer rods to achieve higher compression, getting you to 18.8:1 from the original 17.2:1 due to stroke remaining the same. With that said it looks like it would be possible to achieve -21.5:1 with .080 rods on top of the added stroke using daimonds compression calculator. For the 5.9 crowd but I mean at some point how much is too much? ? My goal with raising the cr. Is to get the total peak combustion pressures up around what a similar 800hp+ biuld would see at higher boost. But in doing this it will help the flame front be more crisp at lower boost and increase overall performance through all boist ranges and rpms within 600-650hp.limit i set for this biuld.
Either way, what I'm interested in is to get more involved in this, and to see what some guys out there have come to understand by doing this (raising the compression..)
I have read things that make no sense. Like needing more fuel to make the same power and the turbo being out flown by increased compression and displacement which kinda really isn't true, what is another .09 of displacement going to do other than help spool the turbo?
What I'm interested in is what characteristics some have noted or found out. And helping others to see REAL WORLD, if this is a good solution; to go either of these three directions in the chase of efficiency.
Allot of people have stated they can achieve 23mpg and up regardless of whether or not it is 4x4 or displacement, they can achieve this stock with a tune, but I just don't think this is the case. Throwing around more weight has it's disadvantages, I mean, even a deleted 6.7 will have a hard time making north of 23mpg period and regularly see 14-18mpg at best. I just don't see a 4x4 6.7 getting north of 23mpg very easily as aposed to a 5.9 2wd. I think it's reasonable to think it's possible but I feel like it's not an easy task to make things more efficient when there inherent design is not efficient at least, when it comes to the combustion process let alone the fact a deleted truck is technically illegal. With that said, I'm hoping what I'm planning to do here will improve some of the stats and value for the 03-07 croud. And bring some sort of added knowledge to the table in the near future.
Here are my plans and a hefty list
suporting mods,
*Custom ported/polished head to flow north of 270cfm+ on the exhaust /245cfm+ on the intake ports (opening up the oversized deeper seats +3mm with the stock valves size not changing, back cut with an anti reversion grove on the exhaust valves ) so, with what ever max numbers this achieves, along with the intake porting all the way up into the intake shelf from each valve seat I will be happy with.
*Ported out Banks intercooler
*Ported banks 3.5" tubes and air horn. *Ported intake plate.
*Ported grid heater delete
*188/220cam
*Billet valve bridges
*Conical valve springs
67/67 he351cw biult turbo ported out
*Ported to the max stock mantifold.
* 7mm larger wastegate flapper and porting to support higher flow for
power driven diesels "add a turbo" compound kit later should I go that route.
*Banks ram air intake and super scoop
*Custom Coolant bypass and welded cast iron 8an T-stat housing using 309 stainless filler.
*4 Billet freeze plugs
*Polished piston chambers to help keep heat in the chambers
*sanded pistons on the bottom sides to help reject heat into oil better
*6.7 oil cooler upgrade
*Threaded freeze plugs under valve cover
[*]www.BigBangInjection.com towing injectors
[*]Deleted factory heat exchanger on rear of motor
[*]Custom self biult transmission with about 9k in parts alone.
[/LIST]
*Billet stock size Sonnax high capacity inputshaft
*Sonnax larger output shaft and T-case spool
Maraging billet 300m steel intermediate shaft
Red eagle frictions
*Billet 3/16 wider front band
*Red eagle power packs in each drum+ the addition of and 8th clutch in forward and a 5th clutch in direct.
*All available drop in sonnax valve upgrades including billet plugs etc.
*Rostra electronics
*Borge warner regulator with porting or "de-shrouding" the area around the inlet on the block it sits in for better accuracy and flow
*48re Reprograming kit.
*1400rpm billet 12 bolt triple disk DPC converter.
All Sonnax servo upgrades plus the addition of the anti flip rear servo and the o'ringed shaft you have to order separately for it to be totally sealed like the other servo's
All new 6pinion planets
Rollerizing the planetary gears
Case saver with the tab
All bushings are ptfe coated
Clutches clearanced to the tighter side
End play clearanced on the tighter side for the hopes to keep the addition of that 5th FOWARD clutch on the hub. Just testing weather this is feasible to run a 5th disk in the 4 clutch forward (48re) without too much trouble.
6position switch +HP Tuners tuning via www.optimalwelding.com
19.4:1 compression
*Total seal gapless piston rings
*Wide bowl slightly lightened stock pistons
*Piston pin forced oil lube mody
*powder metal cracked cap rods
*Arp2000 rod bolts
*Arp 2000 head studs over torqued to yield.
*Mls gaskets
* www.graysperformance.com 100psi sensor and harness, calibrated in the tune.
*600-650hp smokeless tuning, w/power onset reliant on boost reference.
*Amsoil synthetic "red top" trans fluid + the addition of a half bottle of rislone transmission additive to upgrade the fluids ability to suspend the shafts better and help the bushings/planets/thrust bearings all to survive repeated long duration high power pulls with a stronger film strength.
*4x4 front Locking hubs: unlocked
Banks rear diff cover
Amsoil synthetic fluid
Billet True track rear diff
3:73 gears for now, 3.42 gear sets down the road
36x14.5xr24 tires will be ordered
Solid spool or welded front diff
expectations
Overall efficiency increase.
Off road capabilities increased
5-8 mpg over stock. But we will see due to the tire config, I'll also use stock tires and get a comparison
Faster spool
Better response in the tunes from a ?
Higher torque to HP ratio.
More crisp response feel
500-600k miles of low maintenance
Better reliability
Better off road capabilities
Better towing on long hauls.
03-07 Performance Parts Discussion
High compression 5.9block /6.7crank (19.42:1cr)
TagsNone
Jump to Latest
Unfollow
August's Cummins of the Month is now open for VOTING!
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Joshua3777
Joshua3777
·
Registered
Joined Mar 15, 2022 · 30 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 · Sep 24, 2022 (Edited)
Ok guys time to update the platform, thoughts of running higher Compression...
So for my biuld, I'm using a 5.9block 6.7 crank. And the wide bowl pistons I came to 19.42:1 compression and 371.63cubic inches (6.09liters) using daimond pistons compression calculator.
We can further increase cr with other methods now that are available to market like the .080" longer rods to achieve higher compression, getting you to 18.8:1 from the original 17.2:1 due to stroke remaining the same. With that said it looks like it would be possible to achieve -21.5:1 with .080 rods on top of the added stroke using daimonds compression calculator. For the 5.9 crowd but I mean at some point how much is too much? ? My goal with raising the cr. Is to get the total peak combustion pressures up around what a similar 800hp+ biuld would see at higher boost. But in doing this it will help the flame front be more crisp at lower boost and increase overall performance through all boist ranges and rpms within 600-650hp.limit i set for this biuld.
Either way, what I'm interested in is to get more involved in this, and to see what some guys out there have come to understand by doing this (raising the compression..)
I have read things that make no sense. Like needing more fuel to make the same power and the turbo being out flown by increased compression and displacement which kinda really isn't true, what is another .09 of displacement going to do other than help spool the turbo?
What I'm interested in is what characteristics some have noted or found out. And helping others to see REAL WORLD, if this is a good solution; to go either of these three directions in the chase of efficiency.
Allot of people have stated they can achieve 23mpg and up regardless of whether or not it is 4x4 or displacement, they can achieve this stock with a tune, but I just don't think this is the case. Throwing around more weight has it's disadvantages, I mean, even a deleted 6.7 will have a hard time making north of 23mpg period and regularly see 14-18mpg at best. I just don't see a 4x4 6.7 getting north of 23mpg very easily as aposed to a 5.9 2wd. I think it's reasonable to think it's possible but I feel like it's not an easy task to make things more efficient when there inherent design is not efficient at least, when it comes to the combustion process let alone the fact a deleted truck is technically illegal. With that said, I'm hoping what I'm planning to do here will improve some of the stats and value for the 03-07 croud. And bring some sort of added knowledge to the table in the near future.
Here are my plans and a hefty list
suporting mods,
*Custom ported/polished head to flow north of 270cfm+ on the exhaust /245cfm+ on the intake ports (opening up the oversized deeper seats +3mm with the stock valves size not changing, back cut with an anti reversion grove on the exhaust valves ) so, with what ever max numbers this achieves, along with the intake porting all the way up into the intake shelf from each valve seat I will be happy with.
*Ported out Banks intercooler
*Ported banks 3.5" tubes and air horn. *Ported intake plate.
*Ported grid heater delete
*188/220cam
*Billet valve bridges
*Conical valve springs
67/67 he351cw biult turbo ported out
*Ported to the max stock mantifold.
* 7mm larger wastegate flapper and porting to support higher flow for
power driven diesels "add a turbo" compound kit later should I go that route.
*Banks ram air intake and super scoop
*Custom Coolant bypass and welded cast iron 8an T-stat housing using 309 stainless filler.
*4 Billet freeze plugs
*Polished piston chambers to help keep heat in the chambers
*sanded pistons on the bottom sides to help reject heat into oil better
*6.7 oil cooler upgrade
*Threaded freeze plugs under valve cover
[*]www.BigBangInjection.com towing injectors
[*]Deleted factory heat exchanger on rear of motor
[*]Custom self biult transmission with about 9k in parts alone.
[/LIST]
*Billet stock size Sonnax high capacity inputshaft
*Sonnax larger output shaft and T-case spool
Maraging billet 300m steel intermediate shaft
Red eagle frictions
*Billet 3/16 wider front band
*Red eagle power packs in each drum+ the addition of and 8th clutch in forward and a 5th clutch in direct.
*All available drop in sonnax valve upgrades including billet plugs etc.
*Rostra electronics
*Borge warner regulator with porting or "de-shrouding" the area around the inlet on the block it sits in for better accuracy and flow
*48re Reprograming kit.
*1400rpm billet 12 bolt triple disk DPC converter.
All Sonnax servo upgrades plus the addition of the anti flip rear servo and the o'ringed shaft you have to order separately for it to be totally sealed like the other servo's
All new 6pinion planets
Rollerizing the planetary gears
Case saver with the tab
All bushings are ptfe coated
Clutches clearanced to the tighter side
End play clearanced on the tighter side for the hopes to keep the addition of that 5th FOWARD clutch on the hub. Just testing weather this is feasible to run a 5th disk in the 4 clutch forward (48re) without too much trouble.
6position switch +HP Tuners tuning via www.optimalwelding.com
19.4:1 compression
*Total seal gapless piston rings
*Wide bowl slightly lightened stock pistons
*Piston pin forced oil lube mody
*powder metal cracked cap rods
*Arp2000 rod bolts
*Arp 2000 head studs over torqued to yield.
*Mls gaskets
* www.graysperformance.com 100psi sensor and harness, calibrated in the tune.
*600-650hp smokeless tuning, w/power onset reliant on boost reference.
*Amsoil synthetic "red top" trans fluid + the addition of a half bottle of rislone transmission additive to upgrade the fluids ability to suspend the shafts better and help the bushings/planets/thrust bearings all to survive repeated long duration high power pulls with a stronger film strength.
*4x4 front Locking hubs: unlocked
Banks rear diff cover
Amsoil synthetic fluid
Billet True track rear diff
3:73 gears for now, 3.42 gear sets down the road
36x14.5xr24 tires will be ordered
Solid spool or welded front diff
expectations
Overall efficiency increase.
Off road capabilities increased
5-8 mpg over stock. But we will see due to the tire config, I'll also use stock tires and get a comparison
Faster spool
Better response in the tunes from a ?
Higher torque to HP ratio.
More crisp response feel
500-600k miles of low maintenance
Better reliability
Better off road capabilities
Better towing on long hauls.
Build story
This truck is my dream truck, just short of a sun roof, the truck is a 3500 4x4 quad cab 4 speed auto. And is a lower state truck no rust and im trying g to decide to make another flat bed or 5th gen swap the bed and interior.
The truck in short will be a base line of what can be expected from my biulds with efficiency and performance and durability. This truck was a hard worker for a friend of mine always pulling loads on long stretches mostly highway miles. So far I have about 21k in parts for upgrading this truck not I clouding any time or machine shop costs. The capability of this truck will far surpass anything ive ever personally driven myself
This is not an extreme biuld in the direction of off road nor race performance necessarily, but overall efficiency and pushing that efficiency with tubing to see how much we can achieve power wize WITH that efficiency gained. THE GOAL FOR THIS BUILD IS 30MPG.
I always OVER biuld my trucks, so I'm hoping for this to be a showcase of my work later when it comes time to start up a company specializing In 3rd gen trucks that can survive nearly 500-650k miles before a tear down is needed for the trans and engine for wear items with a sub 575-650hp truck, keeping the truck operating in higher efficiency ranges.
Pushing the limits as I am here sadly will not allow the cummins to retain that "1 million mile" capability with the added stresses, but we might be able to get there it just depends on the driver and maintenance in this case.
May we all keep pushing the envelope to what is possible, one step at a time.
The truck in short will be a base line of what can be expected from my biulds with efficiency and performance and durability. This truck was a hard worker for a friend of mine always pulling loads on long stretches mostly highway miles. So far I have about 21k in parts for upgrading this truck not I clouding any time or machine shop costs. The capability of this truck will far surpass anything ive ever personally driven myself
This is not an extreme biuld in the direction of off road nor race performance necessarily, but overall efficiency and pushing that efficiency with tubing to see how much we can achieve power wize WITH that efficiency gained. THE GOAL FOR THIS BUILD IS 30MPG.
I always OVER biuld my trucks, so I'm hoping for this to be a showcase of my work later when it comes time to start up a company specializing In 3rd gen trucks that can survive nearly 500-650k miles before a tear down is needed for the trans and engine for wear items with a sub 575-650hp truck, keeping the truck operating in higher efficiency ranges.
Pushing the limits as I am here sadly will not allow the cummins to retain that "1 million mile" capability with the added stresses, but we might be able to get there it just depends on the driver and maintenance in this case.
May we all keep pushing the envelope to what is possible, one step at a time.